Ekopel FAQ Search

Ekopel 2K is designed for use on various surfaces including bathtubs, sinks, tiles, and countertops. It can be applied to substrates such as cast iron, steel, previously painted surfaces, ceramic, and fiberglass.

A standard size bathtub is 60 inches long. 30-32 inches wide or 5ft long and 2.5-2.7 ft wide.

Yes. While it is designed to be used on bathtubs, countertops, shower stalls/walls, and sinks, Ekopel can be used on many surfaces including tile flooring. 

To recast a shower pan only, our 1/2 gallon kit will be the perfect size (sold as the sink kit).

Suggested accessories and tools for our applications include:

• Paint Tray (for ROLL-ON)

• 1 Mini Roller Frame(for ROLL-ON)

• 6 Foam Rollers (sized 4 to 6 inches) (for ROLL-ON)

• Foam Brush

• Masking Tape 

• Sandpaper (220 grit is the average recommended, depending on age/condition of tub lower grit may be needed)
• Orbital sander CAN be used during prep to save time (and your arm!)

• Masking Paper

• Soft Scrub all purpose cleaner (any variety) Soft Scrub From Lowes

• Razor Blade

• Gloves

The room should be at least 72ºF one day before and during work. No warmer than 78ºF.

Our Ekopel Pour On and Roll-On kits are designed for a standard bathtub. In this case, one full size kit of Pour On and an additional 1/2 gallon size kit (sold as the sink kit) OR a Roll On Tub & Surround kit would be enough material to complete the project. 

If it is possible to disconnect the bath drain, we recommend doing it. It may be possible to disconnect the plastic pipe independently through the access panel. If you cannot remove the bath drain, then close the drain hole.

Fill the drain hole with a paper towel. Seal the bathtub drain tightly with masking tape and carefully cut the masking tape along the contour of the bathtub drain. Disconnect or seal the upper part of the bathtub dreain pipe with masking tape. 

Creating a dam with masking tape or a plastic cup can make final steps a little faster and easier. 

We do not recommend opening the window because dust, dirt, and insects can get into the surface that has not yet dried up.

Silicone can be applied to the hardened material.

Masking tape, which is glued to the wall of the bathtub and located above the coating, should be removed immediately after applying the material. The masking tape, which protects the bathtub's "front apron" as well as tape covering the drain should be removed after the material stops dripping, which is about 5-6 hours after application.

After 24 hours, if the temperature in the bathroom is no less than 72ºF, the material becomes sufficiently hard enough to take a bath. If the temperature is 70ºF, then the bathtub can be used in 36 hours after application. 

It is recommended to wait 7 days after the application before placing pots, bottles of shampoo or body wash, or cleaning pets in the bathtub. Usage of colorants, such as hair color, or various products with colorants which are used for taking a bath can be used 14 days after Ekopel application.

If for any reason you must use a heat gun, the recommended temp is between 200-250 degrees . Keep in mind you can burn the material so work cautiously.

We recommend Scrubbing Bubbles and Tilex (WITHOUT BLEACH) to our customers. For in depth cleaning, a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works well. Any acrylic-safe, nonabrasive cleaner is the best option. 

For long-term care, quarterly polishing with our Bathtub Wax is highly encouraged. The helps to keep the tub easy to clean and prevents the need for hard scrubbing, which can ultimately wear down the shine over time. Bathtub Wax

The coating can last for 15-20 years or more if all recommendations for applying the material are followed in conjunction with proper and careful maintenance. 

Ekopel can be ordered in the following colors: Gray, Biscuit, White and Black. To order a tined kit please send an email or call 1-877-TUB-CAST.

No! Once it is mixed it smells like a spray cleaner; very light, not intense, and quickly disappears. It is not absorbed by clothes.

Using hair color in a bathtub or shower coated with Ekopel is possible, but it comes with some risk. After the full 14-day curing period, you can use hair color, but it's important to rinse the bathtub or shower thoroughly immediately after coloring your hair. This helps prevent the colorant from staining or penetrating the Ekopel coating.

Ekopel is a very thick product. It is one of the things that makes it so durable. Roll-On Ekopel dries about 10x thicker than other painted or sprayed materials and Pour On Ekopel is about 20x thicker. 

If you have Ekopel in an unwanted area (like flooring) simply heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer, and then scrape off what you can. After, use acetone to aid in further removal. If it's on your skin acetone & soap and water can be used. 

Yes it is but we still recommend rinsing the mat off and hanging it to dry after each shower. 

The material has been tested by the German Institute ISEGA and complies with the standards DIN EN 71-3 (Safe for children) and it is harmless when it comes into contact with skin. During the mixing and application of the material, we recommend using standard protection equipment for skin, eyes, and respiratory system.

Cured material can be disposed of as general household waste. Mix residues of liquid components together and, after curing, dispose of it as household waste.

The shelf life is 2 years. Store the product in a dry place, in a firmly closed container, at the temperature 50 to 70ºF. If the product gets frozen, it must be stored in a warm place for 24 hours before it can be used.

As soon as the recasting/refinishing application is dry, a non-slip kit can be applied.

Pour On Ekopel 2k is a thick, glossy, shiny, smooth finish. Roll-On Ekopel is just as durable, glossy, and shiny with a little more orange peel look to it.

While Ekopel can handle some heat, Ekopel can be burned and is not heat resistant. You will want to be careful with hair straighteners, curling irons, etc. as they can burn and melt the material.

We do not ship to Canada directly. However, you can purchase our products through our Canadian distributor. 

https://ecoluxsolution.ca/

jeff@ecoluxsolutions.ca

melissa@ecoluxsolutions.ca

Pigment separation is when you see tiny translucent spots on the surface after application. These spots look very similar to fisheyes, but when you touch them, the surface still feels smooth. This happens when the white pigment in Ekopel slightly separates, leaving small, see-through spots. It does not mean the product failed to bond to the surface, it’s purely a visual issue, and is caused by application technique rather than contamination.

The Non-Slip material is rough enough that you have grip and won't fall but gentle enough that it will not cut or scrape skin. You can still comfortably bathe on this non-slip surface.

We have discontinued the old scooper boxes that are inside the box. The new ones are the wings of the box. Their should be a label that says "cut for scoop." These new scoopers should work better and last longer than the old ones did.

The dry time is 24-36 hours. The cure time can take up to 30 days, but the cure time doesn't affect when you can use ekopel. You can use ekopel when its fully dry and hard so about 36 hours from when you poured.

Ekopel Roll On is designed to be a two coat system at minimum.

For Pour On, the answer is yes. Ekopel will stick to itself, so you could do a second coat of ekopel if desired. But keep in mind Ekopel Pour On is a very thick product, so you may not need or want the second coat. 

Due to so many variables with user consistency, there is no warranty or guarantee with Ekopel products. Be sure to follow the instructions provided in your kit and corresponding videos precisely for the best finish. We do have customer service agents available to help assist with any mistakes on the chat or give us a call.

We have improved the manufacturing process for our Roll On kits, eliminating the need for a filter. Some older packaging may still mention using a "provided" filter, but please disregard this step. Filters are no longer included or necessary for the application process.

Thank you for your understanding.

Fisheyes and pigment separation look very similar, but they are actually two different issues:

• Fisheyes: These are small, circular craters where the coating did not stick. You can see the original surface through them, and the area feels uneven to the touch. Fisheyes are typically caused by surface contamination like oil, soap residue, or silicone.

• Pigment Separation: These appear as tiny, bubble-like spots, but the surface is smooth and level when you run your hand across it. This is caused by the white pigment separating slightly due to application technique, not by adhesion failure.

Each kit comes with a specific set of instructions. The following is a general summary of the prep process. 

1. Sanding: Begin by sanding the unit smooth to the touch using 100-220 grit sandpaper as a baseline. Even if the surface feels smooth, it’s important to give it a thorough sanding. If you find that the surface needs more abrasion, especially on older tubs or tile surrounds, don't hesitate to go to a lower grit (e.g., 80 grit) for more effective results. Sanding is crucial, and sometimes a coarser grit is necessary to properly prepare the surface. Keep in mind that with some materials, the shine might not completely disappear after sanding—that's okay as long as the surface is well-sanded. Also, remember that soap scum can sometimes be invisible. Even if you think it's all gone, doing one last run with the sandpaper never hurts to ensure a clean surface.

2. Etching and Cleaning: After sanding, etch and deep clean the surface using any variety of Soft Scrub All Purpose Cleaner. This step further prepares the surface by etching and deep cleaning it. You can even wet sand with this product and water on the surface. IMPORTANT: Fully rinse the product off the surface after cleaning. You may need to do this cleaning twice to fully ensure all invisible residue is removed. 

3. Filling Imperfections: If there are any cracks, chips, holes, dents, or pitted areas, fill them with automotive Bondo and sand smooth for a more level finish.

4. Masking: Ensure the surface is completely dry. Use painter’s tape to mask the borders of the tub, surround, or sink, and tape off the drain and overflow.

After completing these steps, you’ll be ready to begin your application of Ekopel.

Remove all items from the bathroom (towels, bathrobes, personal care products) and thoroughly vacuum the walls, ceiling, shelves and other places where dust would collect. This will help to avoid the dust from getting into the coating. Close the window so that insects do not come in and get into the coating. Prevent animals from entering the bathroom during the work and after, while the material is drying. Maintain the temperature in the bathroom at 72 degrees for one day before the work, at the time of the work, and for 24 hours after applying the material

Yes. Paint, which peels off from the bathtub, sink, or other surface should be removed in order for the new layer to have good adhesion and not peel off in the future. You can scrape off the peeling areas then use 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out chips and edges.  If it continues to peel or it won't smooth out, we recommend using a paint stripper to fully remove your old surface paint.

No, we recommend peeling up what you can, then sand the rest smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Can fill any cracks, chips, holes, dents, or pitted areas with Bondo or Epoxy and then sand smooth again.

Yes, the rust must be removed. Use sandpaper and then wash and dry well before applying Ekopel. You can also try using a rust remover however just be sure to rinse all of it off and the surface is dry before applying Ekopel.

Yes. All soap scum and limescale must be removed. To do so, we recommend scrubbing with any variety of Soft Scrub All Purpose cleaner. 

Yes. Silicone must be removed completely. If the material is applied on a surface where silicone is not removed, the material may peel off or create other undesirable results. A light sanding around the areas of concern (previously siliconed) is recommended. 

If your tub has chips in the surface, they need to be filled with Epoxy or Bondo filler (purchased separately in any DIY-store). After the Epoxy or Bondo dries, smooth out the area by using sandpaper. All Purpose Bondo

The Ekopel will seal and bond directly to the metal. Before applying, make sure that any rust is removed. Grooves can be leveled using Bondo or Epoxy filler (purchased separately in any DIY-store).

It is necessary to eliminate/repair the leak, or turn off the water connection during the work and drying period to prevent water from getting on the bathtub surface.

Sanding:

1. Start with 100-220 Grit Sandpaper: Begin by sanding the unit smooth to the touch using 100-220 grit sandpaper as your baseline. This grit range is generally effective for most surfaces, but if you encounter tougher areas, especially on older tubs or tile surrounds, consider using a lower grit, such as 80 grit, for more aggressive sanding.

2. Thorough Sanding: Even if the surface feels smooth initially, it’s crucial to give it a thorough sanding. Proper sanding is essential to remove any build-up, ensuring a good bond with the coating.

If the material has not yet hardened, it can be cleaned with acetone or isopropyl alcohol, or even a baby wipe. If the material has hardened, heat the area that you would like to remove with a dryer and scrape the material with a knife.

Fisheyes are areas where the material did not fully adhere or separated. They are typically caused by not sanding an area, improper cleaning, rinsing and drying of the surface, or too high humidity. To remedy this issue let the surface completely dry. Go ahead and sand where it is affected, your goal is to sand for a smooth surface NOT to sand all the ekopel off. You want to keep as much of it as you can on the surface, as ekopel adheres best to itself. However if the fisheyes are not sanded before applying more material, it will mirror the beneath.

To remove an insect easily, heat that specific area with a hair dryer and remove the particle with a sharp object. After cooling, polish this place with a soft cloth with a rubbing compound. If a deep hole remains, use our Ekopel Touch Up kit to repair it. Any places where dust accumulated can also be polished with a soft cloth and a rubbing compound.

Drips, sags, and irregularities can be leveled, using 220-400 grit sandpaper, and then 1500 grit and then buffing  these places with a soft cloth and rubbing compound. If the defects have not disappeared, then another way to fix the surface is to sand down the whole unit smooth and recoat with an additional kit of the Ekopel purchased for the project. If it is just a smaller area then a Touch Up kit would be a good option.

Yellowish stains are caused by not mixing the product well enough for long enough. Part B will rise to the top and produce yellow spots. To minimize the look of the stains you can try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and baking soda. If the stains still do not disappear, the best option is to sand down the stained area and recoat with a rolled, thin coat of the Ekopel Touch Up kit.

The chip needs to be repaired immediately. If this is not done, water can get through the chip under the paint and the Ekopel could peel off. To repair the chip, sand the chipped area and use our Ekopel Touch Up Kit over it.

Streaks are often confused with drip marks. Streaks are when the material didn't fully cover, or covered a little thin in an area and looked streaky. We recommend sanding the affected area smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper, make sure it's smooth to the touch or it will mirror the affected area. Then use the Ekopel Touch Up kit to recover the area.

This can be caused by a mixing issue. If the Component A and Component B aren't mixed well enough for long enough or if you didn't use any of Component B, this would result in a project that will not dry. If the room temp is too cold this can also hinder the drying process. To fix this issue it is recommended to scrape off the tacky material, sand smooth again if needed, and reapply Ekopel to the affected areas with a Touch Up kit.

If  water gets up under the finish bubbles may result. This can happen from not re-caulking the tub when done with the application or if there was a chip or crack that wasn't repaired right away. To fix this we recommend peeling up any loose pieces, sand smooth then re-coat the affected areas with an Ekopel Touch Up kit.

Ekopel dries in 24-36 hours. Once you mix that Part B into A you only have about 45 minutes to 1 hour to work with the material and get it on your project. After that the material becomes too difficult to work with. If using the Pour On kit, pour the material immediately after mixing. If you were to leave the material mixed in the container it begins to get really hot and harden. Best practice is to mix and apply all variations of Ekopel immediately

If you pour your non-slip on too thick it can come out smooth. It is recommended to purchase another kit and reapply it thinner this time.

Can be caused from not pulling the mat up after each shower, rinsing it off, and hanging to dry. Can also be caused from water quality (like hard water or iron) or chemicals in your shower products like shampoo conditioner, etc.

If you have Ekopel in an unwanted area, like a floor, you can heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer and then scrape off what you can. Then use a wet cloth, baby wipe. or acetone to get the rest off. If it's on your hands use soap and water.

If you don't remove the tape around the drain at hour 4-5 then the material can flow over the drain and completely cover it up. If this happens use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the drain area up and score around the drain where the drain hole is. 

If this doesn't work then you can use a dremel tool and cut it out. From there you can sand any affected areas smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper and buff it out or use our Ekopel Touch Up kit if needed. 

If you get Ekopel material in the drain try to heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer and scrape out what you can. If you can't get anything out you will have to call a plumber to replace the pipes. If the area around the drain has pooled, dried and is a little too thick you can sand it down a bit with 220-320 grit sandpaper, then use 600 grit to 1500 grit. Finally, use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back 

Lightly sand the unit with 220–320 grit sandpaper, wipe away dust with isopropyl alcohol, and recoat. Since the surface is smooth and bonded, this is only a visual fix, not an adhesion issue.