7 TIPS FOR TUB REGLAZING SUCCESS
Most people prefer tub reglazing over buying a new bathtub. Why? Because when all the recommendations are applied properly, bathtub refinishing can make a tub look brand new and it’s way cheaper than purchasing a new one! There are several factors to consider when resurfacing a bathtub. In the sections below, we'll outline seven simple steps to make your next tub reglazing project a huge success.
Step 1: Bathtub Prep
Check all plumbing and drains to be sure they are properly working and are in good shape. Make sure the bathroom is well ventilated. The room temperature should be no more than 75 degrees and no less than 72 degrees. If it's too hot or humid the material won’t want to stick to the tub. Or can harden too fast and not self level. If it's too cold the material won’t want to dry or may take longer to dry and might not self level properly.
Step 2: Remove Caulk
The first step you need to take before removing the caulk is to apply a caulk remover product. From there scrape off as much of the residue as possible. You can use a razor blade or flat head screwdriver to help. Try not to scratch the surface you are cleaning. It’s important to remove all the caulk as Ekopel will not adhere over the caulk. The next step to do is to clean the whole area thoroughly.
Step 3: Sand the Tub
You will want to sand the whole unit smooth to the touch, with 220-320 dry grit sandpaper. Even if it's pretty smooth, give it a quick sand. You will want to hand sand it as an electric sander can sometimes be too harsh. Sanding is an important prep step to not miss! If missed you will not have a good adhere.
Step 4: Repair Any Imperfections
You can fill any cracks, chips, holes, dents, or pitted areas with automotive bondo. Can even use it for bad rust spots. Or can use it to fill in grout lines on tile. Then sand smooth to the touch for a more level finish.
Step 5: Clean the Bathtub
When refinishing a bathtub, the surface must be absolutely smooth to the touch. From there you will want to deep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it. This will etch and deep clean the surface. It will make sure there is no soap scum or residue left behind. Ekopel is such a strong product it could adhere to the soap scum and cause issues down the road. If this etching and deep clean are not done you won’t have a good adhere. As the surface wasn’t prepared correctly. Make sure you don’t skip this step!
Step 6: Apply Masking Tape
Next is taping! You will need a roll of painters tape to mask off areas where you don’t want material. Tape around the tub, as well as the surrounding flooring, and walls. You should also mask the drain by placing tape over it (just remove the excess so it doesn't get in the way of the material). You can even create a tape dam. Place half tape on the floor, and half sticking up in the air. This will make sure no material can cover the drain area.
Step 7: Apply Ekopel 2K
Lastly, when steps one through six have been completed, you're ready to apply for Ekopel!! Be sure that you read the instructions thoroughly. Ekopel can NOT be rolled on!! It HAS to be poured and pushed! If it rolled on or applied any other way it will cause yellowing and streaking. You can go back in after 36-48 hours from when you poured and re-caulk. You will want to make sure you do this or water can get up under the finish and cause issues further down the road.